Thursday, November 8, 2012

Wednesday but not at choir

Out for breakie in Montmontre
Kevin and I planned on having a musically inspired day in honour of it being Wednesday, but we got held up early on, so part two is happening tomorrow. But anyways. We got up in the morning to do laundry, which meant we had about an hour to kill in Montmartre. We started with a petit breakfast at a café- orange jus, café au lait, an omelet, and a croissant. I didn't eat all the flaky delicious pastry, but I had some, because how could I not?

As we waited for our clothes to get clean we took the funicular up the hill and popped inside Sacré-Coeur. I like the outside better than the inside, but I'm glad to have seen both. When we finally got our clothes dried, and my underwear hanging all over the apartment, we set out for the day.

Love this view





Our first stop was the train station at Saint-Lazare to sort out our tickets for our train trip. Turns out that even in the off season, you really do need advances reservations, so we had to do a lot of refiguring. We were at the station for over an hour pouring over potential schedules, and so that set our day back a bit.

We soldiered on though, and made our way to the Palais Garnier to lift our spirits. Unfortunately, the auditorium was closed for the day, but we did see the splendor of the grand staircase and some fancy foyers. They had a really cute gift shop too, where I wanted to buy everything.

After visiting the opera, Kevin and I got a dose of department store history at the Galleries Lafayette. They had a giant Swarovski Christmas tree in the centre of the cupola that so got me in the holiday mood. By chance, we discovered a "100 years of fashion" exhibit on the 2nd floor. My favourite part was the "Centennial Catwalk", which was cutouts of women wearing the fashion of each decade from 1900-now. Made for some sweet "pose" photos. There were other neat things too. I was quite glad to have stumbled across it!!

We went for dinner at a chinese food place in the building, and then scoped out the top floor for some souvenirs. Next up, we metro'ed to St. Chapelle, where we had tickets to see a classical concert entitled "Ave Maria" (very SCC of them). St. Chapelle is super old, and a lot smaller than I thought it would be. It made for an intimate concert. The string orchestra and mezzo soprano soloist were quite grand musicians, and I enjoyed the concert thoroughly. They had a great mix of well-known faves (Schubert, Bach-Gonoud), and also neat lesser known tunes. The acoustics were brilliant.

The concert was short and sweet. Only an hour and over at 8- so Kev and I decided to keep the night going a bit longer. We recharged on a donair and dessert crêpe respectively (I'm such a cheater), and then metro'ed to the Palais de Tokyo- a modern art museum that is open until midnight.



Dude, it was weird. But also awesome. My favourite room was one with fake grass spread out on the concrete and white sheets hung from clothes lines, creating a sort of maze. There was also a room set up like a little farming area that had "element" shacks that surprised you when you opened the door with claps of thunder or a gust of wind. Pretty cool. It was fun seeing such "out there" stuff after having seen so many "classics" over the previous days.

We got back to Kev's apartment around midnight, packed up a picnic and guitar and went up the hill. We serenaded the drunkards of Sacré-Coeur that evening, and had a rather lovely time munching on brie and sipping on white wine and cranberry juice.  Kevin and Walter had a French assignment to finish that night, so we were up super late. Which meant I got to sleep in the next morning without feeling guilty. Bonus.
Une belle nuit au Sacre-Coeur

Just me

Tuesday I had the day to myself, and spent most of it at the Musée d'Orsay. I'll admit to having a rather leisurely morning...I think I arrived at the museum around noon. Because I'd bought the "M 'O" passport from the day before, I didn't have to wait in line- which was a huge bonus, as it was a long one.

I was quite glad to have lots of time to spare to explore the different galleries. It meant I could really soak in the different artists and their styles. Of course though, to a certain extent I was simply pushing through the first 3 floors in anticipation of the Impressionism exhibit on the top. There was the most adorable little boy up there with a sketch book, copying out famous paintings. It was just too cute.

Charade starring
Audrey Hepburn
I finished the museum at about 2pm, and then took a break with a café creme at the Cafe des L'ours (bear cafe? There was a polar bear sculpture out front so I figured maybe). After killing a little time there I headed back to salle 58 on the second floor, which had been transformed into a little theatre and I'd noticed the next show was scheduled for 3pm.


Turns out that as part of their "Impressionism et la mode" exhibit ( which cost extra- boo) they were looking at fashionable actresses in Paris, and so I got to watch a Hepburn film!! It was called "Charade", was in English, and was such a lovely way to wind down my afternoon!!

I left the museum around 5 and walked to Place St. Michel, where I knew there was a Starbucks. I chilled there for a while and eventually met Kevin at Trocadero for a stunning view of the Eiffel Tower all lit up in the night. We went for dinner nearby. Kevin tried Foie Gras and I had ratatouille. We're so French.

We went home and planned out our train trip- or we thought we had it planned out...but more on that later!!

The Eiffel Tower 


Les musées



Cupid and Psyche - The Louvre
My girl Athena
On Monday, Kevin had an early morning class so Walter and I set out to meet Lina and Timo at the Musée de Louvre. I'd been before, when I was here in 2009, but I felt this time through to be a lot more extensive. In fact, Walter and I conquered practically the entire Denon wing- which is a pretty decent feat.

Winged Victory.  Love it.
The four of us started our Louvre experience with the Italian painters section, and yes this was largely due to our desire to visit Mona. The lovely Ms. Lisa is just like I remembered her- a little underwhelming but something you just have to see. Amazing that even in the off season of November it can get so crowded in front of that tiny painting behind bullet-proof glass.

this painting inspired Les Mis


There were several paintings in that section that I thoroughly enjoyed, and also in the next two sections we visited- the Spanish and French painters. A highlight of the latter was Delacroix's "Victory Leading her People", which is quite simply moving.

Lina and Timo had to go at that point, but Walter and I continued through the sculpture section, crossing "Venus de Milo" and "Cupid and Psyche" off our list. We were then satisfied we'd done the Denon wing justice, so we popped back under the pyramids and over to the Richelieu wing.

Napoleanic Apartments
Here we saw more sculptures, and some German, Dutch and other "Nordic" paintings, but the highlight was definitely visiting Napoleon's apartments. I didn't even know they were there! It's really cool that while the rest of the Louvre has clearly been repurposed to house art, the apartments are likely quite close to how they were when Napoleon actually lived there. I was pretty awestruck by the "Grand Salon". Plush red velvet everywhere, huge mirrors and glimmering chandeliers. The "Dining Room" was equally impressive, and I had a soft spot for the display of tea ware.

By the time we were through the apartments we'd spent nearly 3 hours staring at art, so our brains we a little mushy. We ducked in to the Starbucks on rue de rivoli just as a petit shower started trickling down on the streets of Paris, and took a well-deserved coffee break. Walter went full Parisian, reading some Voltaire, and I went full tourist, writing postcards in broker French.


The rain stopped just as we were ready to move on. The day really agreed with us. We took a stroll through the Jardin des Tuilleries and made our way to the Musée de l'Orangerie. Still my favourite part of Paris so far. There is something about Monet's "Les Nympheas", his water lilies, that just makes me feel so at ease and so filled with emotion. The same is somewhat true of Impressionism in general. I just love the style! Walter and I both took our time on the first floor, which is the set of 8 water lily paintings by Monet. You really have to take that time, I think, to appreciate their beauty. We had enough time to view the rest of the museum as well (also lovely as ever) before catching the metro to Mark's house, where he and Kevin made risotto for dinner. We were joined by Lina, Timo, and another Italian friend, Erika, and after dinner we watched "V for Vendetta" to commemorate it being November 5th. Kevin had class early the next morning so he just stayed at Mark's, and Walter and I metro'ed back to Montmartre and went to bed!
The scene at the end of our museum day.  Perfection in Paris.

Wednesday, November 7, 2012

Un jour a la Chateau Versailles

Paris has this great deal on the first Sunday of every month, where practically all the museums, monuments and other attractions are free. Since Versailles is one of the most expensive of these (18€ a pop!) we decided to take advantage of the freebie on Nov 4th and visit the famous palace.

We were joined by Lina, a friend of Kevin and Walter's from Germany, studying at the Sorbonne, and her brother Timo who was visiting. We took the RER train out to Versailles (unlike my last time visiting, I paid the proper fare this time), arriving around 11:40. After a round of coffee, we found a little grocery store to add to our picnic fare (they had an olive bar. It ruled), stopped in at a boulagerie for a baguette (90 cents. So awesome) and arrived in the palace courtyard at around 12:15. It appears many people shared our grand idea. The line of these people snaked around the courtyard several times and appeared to be at least 2 hours long. Onto plan b!

The lineup for the gardens was literally non-existant, and as I'd visited the palace before but not the grounds, I was totally fine with the change of plans.

The Gardens
Posing in the sunlight
I could list several synonyms for the word "massive" and still not do the size of those jardins justice. Absolutely colossal. And also stunningly beautiful! There was a "grand canal" in the middle shaped of a cross that started at the chateau and then expanded almost as far as the eye could see. Around the canal the gardens were organized into lovely tree lined lanes and courtyards. There were fountains and statues everywhere.

It took us about an hour and a half to walk down one stretch of the canal, where we met up with Mark and some more student friends, these ones from Italy. We took a break for our pique-nique, which felt quite quintessentially Parisian to me. A bottle of red wine of course. We had figs, plums, oranges and bananas. Fresh olives, salami, baguette and briiiiiiie! Such lovely brie. You can get a wheel here for 2€ the same size as you'd pay $15 for at home.

BAGUETTE!
I allowed myself one small piece of fresh baguette and momentarily ascended into gastronomical heaven. After our nice little picnic, we parted ways with Mark and the gang and continued along just the 5 of us who had arrived together. We went inside the "Petit Trianon"- a summer castle Marie Antoinette enjoyed all to herald. It was what you would expect- a lot of grandness, but on a lesser scale than the main chateau.

Our next stop was Marie's little village she had created so she could feel normal, which was definitely a highlight of the day. It was just so adorable with its little thatched roofs and cute knobby fences! There were even operating vegetable gardens and a field filled with goats and geese and two strange looking highland cows. I fed an adorable baby goat.

Cute little fella

Such a rebel.
After the village we parted ways with Lina and Timo and continued on to the "Grand Trianon". It wasn't anything that special really, except that it boasted some exquisite views of the garden. Man, last time I was at Versailles I had no idea any of this stuff even existed!

We made our way back down the canal (had to jump a fence like a bad ass to get there) and to the main palace around 5pm- the last admittance. We basically blitzed through the first floor of the chateau at lighting pace, but we saw the hallway of mirrors, which was my fave from last time anyways, so I was satisfied.

Petit Trianon from afar
We couldn't be bothered with the evening onslaught back to Paris on the RER, so we killed an hour at the Starbucks in Versailles, leaving around 7pm. Walter made a yummy dinner for the three of us that night, and after a game of "Ticket to Ride" we said our good nights and went to bed!

Next up is a grand museum day. Get pumped.

Monday, November 5, 2012

La vie Parisienne!!!

Je suis à Paris! C'est formidable et le ville est aussi belle que je me souviens.

Excuse if my French is terrible. I've only been in France for 3 full days, I figure I've got til the end of the week for my language skills to kick into gear.

I arrived in the city of lights, the magical city of Paris, at about 5pm on Friday evening. Kevin came and met me with his friend Mark. So great to see my buddy!!!!

Sacre-Coeur my first night in Paris!!
It was also awesome to just be back in Paris. It's such a magical place!! We took the metro to Kevin's apartment, where I met his roommate Walter. Kev lives literally in the heart of Montmartre. Like, smack in the middle. Sacré-Coeur is a minute's walk away. It's amazing.

That night, we journeyed up the hill and saw Sacré-Coeur all lit up and beautiful. We ended up having dinner at a little pizzeria place, drawn to it because of the live piano music. I had an omelet du fromage. Ya protein. At one point during our meal the pianist played Clair de Lune and I knew my Paris trip had officially started. On our way out the boys requested he play the Amelie soundtrack, and he did.
first view of the Seine and Notredame!

That evening the boys taught me a couple new board games, and we finished the evening by actually watching Amelie. It takes place in the neighborhood of Montmartre, so that was cool and a nice little intro to the area.


St. Michel - our jam
Saturday morning, Kevin, Walter and I woke up and took a free walking tour like the one I took in Copenhagen. We hit up many of the main sites. We started at the Fountain St. Michel, which was very beautiful. Then we walked over to the Seine to check out a view of Notre Dame. I'm looking forward to going inside there this trip.

Next we walked down to the right bank of the river to see Pont Neuf. Our guide explained how all the random faces lining the brides were casts made from portraits made at the kick-off party for the bridge, of all the drunken guests. The original Facebook. Haha.

Pont Neuf with its silly faces
Next we walked through the courtyards of the Louvre. When we wandered past the fountains (by the pyramids) I got all sentimental for my time there with Kirst, Grady and my mom back in 2009. "We'll always have Paris"

We took a quick break at Starbucks, where I ordered my "moca blanc" in decent French. Up next was an ever so pleasant walk through the Jardin des Tuileries and a lesson in French history.

When the tour ended, we walked past the Obelisk and shopped the Champs Élysées. I bought a couple things at H&M and am possibly most excited about the bag they came in (with the address on it).

My goodness I love this city.
We arrived at the Arc de Triomphe at around sunset and took some nice photos there. Then we metro'ed home, where Kevin and I planned out our train trip around France. It's going to be amazing!!

Kevin and I went for dinner at an unreal crêperie in Montmartre. The set menu included a savoury crêpe, a sweet crêpe, and a glass of Breton kir. The savoury crêpes there were all "Breton style", which meant they were gluten free!!!

For my savoury I had one called the "Norvegienne" which was smoked salmon and creamed spinach and lemon and TO DIE-FOR!!! My sweet one, "Mont Blanc", was bananas, chocolate, grilled almonds, whipped cream and ice cream and I died again.

Back at the apartment, Kevin, Walter and I played a sweet game called Ticket to Ride (it involves creating railways in old school Europe), and got to bed later than we should have. The next day was the first Sunday of the month, which means essentially everything in Paris is free, so we planned to take on Versailles.

Stay tuned!

Sunday, November 4, 2012

Another last night in Amsterdam

I swear, by the end of this trip I'll have more "last nights in Ams" then anywhere else combined.

They're so great, I keep going back for more.

After our hardcore bicycle day, Monday way pretty chill. I don't think Lisa and I left the flat until 6:00pm. Whatever. It was an awesome and deserved day of rest. Tuesday was a day of studying for Lisa, reading and journalling for me, and an afternoon trip to the costume stores with Jenny where our Halloween plans were solidified. That night, Lis and I went to a sweet restaurant called Wagamama that made a mean fried rice.

Wednesday I awoke to the sounds of Jack the Pumpkin King. Well played, best friend. When Lisa was in school I had me a shopping day. Bought a new pink suitcase to load up with European treasures. Returned to Sascha and bought a fierce pair of boots. Bought a portable USB complete with dorky lanyard from Hema. Then I trekked all the way to Leidseplein so I could have Starbucks. I'm seriously obsessed. It was glorious though. No regrets.

That night Weesperstraat 47 hosted a killer Halloween party. Lisa and I went as birds, and managed to pull off some pretty wicked face makeup. We also had hilarious toucan beaks, wings, and feathers in our hair- which was held up with oodles of hairspray and back combing and some French braids. They were thrown together pretty late in the game, but our bird costumes turned out to be a great hit.
Rare Birds: Unique though two

#cray
It was a great party. Lisa and I spent most of our night with Frank and Jenny (rock star and old lady, respectively) and also with Sam and Jenny, who was dressed as Mia from pulp fiction. We had planned to go out, but since the party raged on until about 3am, we just rode that out and ended our night with drunken nachos in the kitchen.

Late in the game Thursday I stumbled across the discovery of a Museum of Bags and Purses right nearby Lisa's place. So obviously I went there. It was pretty cool seeing how purses have evolved from the 18th century on. My mum and Kirst would have loved it.

That evening, Lisa and I finally mastered the art of sober double-bike-riding, and made our way to Badcuyp Jazz Club for our farewell dinner. There was a guitar trio playing that night, and as soon as we got in he vicinity of the club and I could hear jazz creeping out the door I knew it was gonna be good. I seriously love live jazz music so much! It's one of my favourite things, I think.

We got a table near where the trip was playing, ordered a couple glasses of wine and toasted our wonderful time in Amsterdam together. We ordered an elaborate meal- well, for us. Fries, Falafel and olives to start, French Onion Soup for Lisa and Quiche for me, and a "hot vegetable plate" to share. Just before our food arrived we were joined by Crainy, Molly and Marco, and later Crainy's two friends visiting from Germany.
The music ended at around 10:30, with a sweet jazz rendition of an MJ song. Then Lisa and I biked back to Weesperflat and enjoyed our last night together. In the morning, we got up and made breakfast, and soon I was off for Paris!

Friday, November 2, 2012

So Much Cycling

My first day back in Amsterdam was the one which we had decided on for a bike ride. The forecast was good, with only a small chance of showers, and though it wasn't sunny, with a mostly clear sky. The plan was a bike ride of epic proportions to "Waterland", an area of the Dutch countryside.

Lisa and I were both feeling a bit unsure about going through with the plan. We were both feeling pretty taken over by colds, but were also both quite excited at the prospect of this ride.

We mulled it over during breakfast at Bagels&Beans, whose food we are still impressed by, but find their timely service is somewhat lacking. We met Jenny, Sam and Povka back at the flat with the decision that we would give the bike ride a go, and turn back early if we felt the need. At this point, I was under the impression that our final destination was about an hour away. 2 hours of bike riding with a break in between? I can handle that, figured silly Danica.

Can you sense the turn of events coming up in this tale?

Turns out the itinerary we had discovered had two options, a shorter and a longer, and I was unintentionally bamboozled into doing the latter.

Our ride started off through what were becoming the familiar streets of Amsterdam, to Central Station. There, we took the world's shortest ferry ride across a small channel to Amsterdam-Noord.

Sam, myself, Jenny and Povka on the ferry across the channel
Amsterdam-Noord
 We biked along a lot of enchanting woodland paths, down some tree lined streets, made a a quick stop at a sweet playground and scared some Dutch children with our "Big People" ways, and finally made it to Zuiderdorp. Yes, I believe that is the actual name of the town, if not the actual spelling.

Z-town








Z-town was simply stop number one, a cutesy little farming town that reminded me a bit of Cloverdale, but with more sheep, more canals, and cute cottagey looking houses.

We then embarked on the next leg of our trip, that took us through some skinny little country lanes, and a really neat bike path that was raised far above the street for cars, and above sea level (rare in Ams). We had a nice little system going of Jenny, Sam and Povka stopping every once in a while to let the sickies catch up, and then the 5 of us would set out again, forming a very Sound of Music like convoy.


Me and Povka

Me and Jenny

Weeeeeeee

The crew


In what felt like forever, we made it to the Island town of Merken, which was pretty cool, and worth the trek. It was a quaint little harbour town, with lots of typically Dutch looking houses, some souvenir shops, and some restaurants- though a lot of them were closed, as it was a Sunday. Truthfully the town was so quiet when we arrived around 3:00 that I had moments of feeling like I was in a zombie apocalypse film.

Jenny and Sam succeeded in finding an open restaurant, and a quite nice one at that. We warmed up with some hot Chocomelk (with lots o' slagrom- whipped cream), and most of us had the soup of the day- a yummy homemade pumpkin. Lis and Jenny also had "toasties"- paninis that looked amazing. I had an ice cream sundae for dessert. Delicious.

We stayed at the restaurant for a couple hours. There's a thing in the Netherlands where your bill is never given until asked for. The Dutch apparently don't care if you just hang out forever- or at least, want to appear that they feel that way. After our scrumptious meal, we hit up a couple souvenir shops with some great deals. At around 5:30 we realized that, oh shit, our clocks had fallen back that day, and so it was really more like 6:30, and the skies were beginning to darken.
Merken at dusk

There was much humming and hawing on my part whether or not I was going to faint off my bike in some field somewhere, but as the buses don't take bikes here, toughing it out was the only viable option.

We took a more direct route home then we had taken away from it, but partly due to mine and Lisa's lethargy it still took about an hour and a half to get back to Ams.

Navigating the narrow roads in the nearly pitch black that night is something I'll never forget. There are no street lights on the beaten down bike paths in the countryside. There is very little stopping you from going just a tad to far to one side of the lane and ending up knee-deep in canal water. When I told my dad this story he said "didn't you have lights on your bikes?" Technically the answer was no, not all of us did, but I personally had one, and so answered my Pa, "yeah, so you could see, like, maybe 3 feet in front of you. Not super helpful." What a freaking adventure though! Like I said, I'll never forget it.

When the lights of Amsterdam starting popping up in the distance I had never been happier to see a city coming into view. Many WOOOOOOOOs were given when we made it, mostly unscathed, to the ferry back to town.

Bums were bruised and legs were burning, but we'd accomplished a 50km bike ride and lived to tell the tale.

Amsterdam doesn't sell Gatorade, but a sports drink called Aquarius. I got the blue one.