Monday, November 26, 2012

All you need is sLOVEnia

Dragon Bridge in the heart of Lljublana
Well. I had a fantastic weekend in the beautiful country of Slovenia. Can't believe that London and a brief stop in Amsterdam are all that's left in my epic Euro-adventure!

I arrived in Ljubljana at about 2:30pm on Friday afternoon. The station was a bit bigger than I'd imagined it would be (good for you, Ljubljana!), and I had a brief "oh shit" moment of thinking I wouldn't be able to find Mat, but it all worked out. He had a car at the station- what a luxury, not having to cart my stuff around on a bus- and our first stop in Slovenia was a department store where I finally found a replacement for my dilapidated combat boots. And only 15€!!

Then we drove to Mat's home in Domžale, where I met his parents, Matia and Blaženka, and his younger brother Jakob. Blaženka had made us a lovely lunch. First the classic "comfort food" of soup- perfect for after travelling- with these little dumpling like things called "kneudels" floating around inside. Then we had some chicken and rice and I broke the news of my annoying gluten allergy. Blaženka immediately went out and stocked up on rice alternatives- the first of many kindnesses I received from this wonderfully sweet woman.

One of the rivers running through the town
This fountain represents the 3 rivers that run through Lljubljana
The hotel we stopped in for a drink at
After lunch/dinner, Mat drove us in to Ljubljana (only about 20 mins away. You can drive across the while country in 2.5 hours) to the music academy he takes voice lessons at. I was in for the treat of hearing Mat and fellow students give a short informal concert. It was lovely and Mat sounded great. At the end of the concert I met Mat's girlfriend Sanja, and the three of us took to the streets of the capital city, both locals pointing things out to me as we went. We crossed many bridges- my favourite the "dragon bridge", decorated with the city's animal mascot of sorts. We saw lively squares, beautiful churches, and ducked into the Art Nouveau styled "Union Hotel" for drinks. There was a Slovenian story-telling performance happening, which Sanja graciously translated for little old English me. (Have I mentioned how stoked I am to be headed to a country where my language is also their's? I won't feel like such a North American jerk anymore).
A little Ljubljana model!
Sanja had to duck home then for a quick study sess (med students. Just as busy in Slov as they are back home), but Mat and I had a bit more time to explore. He showed me some beautiful churches and a little mini model of Ljubljana where I attempted to get my bearings. Then we walked to his car, picked up Sanja and drove to the hockey rink in Ljubljana where Mat was reffing an evening rec league game. Sanja and I so enjoyed each other's company in the stands that I must admit we missed most of the action of the ice.

We chatted about all sorts of things, including Sanja's experiences singing with the World Youth Choir, which is something I'm really interested in checking out for myself. The game ended around 11:30, we dropped Sanja home, and after Blaženka checked that we were happy and had had a good day, we went to bed.

Thursday, November 22, 2012

So much Salz

I succeeded in packing my day to the brim today.

View from a fortress tower
Alex and I got breakfast together at the buffet downstairs, and set out at around 9am- so right on schedule. We walked across the bridge to old town, and the fog had let up enough today to allow for some nice mountain views! The first thing we did was take the funicular up the cliff to visit the Salzburg Fortress. The views from up there were amazing!!!! Definitely worth it. We did a little audio-guided tour through the fortress and that was neat too.

Up on the roof at the Salzburg Fortress
We took the funicular back down, walked a little ways and then took the Monsburg lift up through the rocks to the Modern Art Museum. There were 3 floors to the exhibit. One called "open spaces, hidden places" that was mostly photography. Another that was really sparse and I can't even remember what it was, and a third that was "portraits" and had some really cool creative takes on the subject, like a woven tapestry portrait and a portrait made of thumbprints.

After our short visit to the museum, Alex and I headed back down to the street and went to see Mozart's birthplace together. It was a nice little museum- well organized and with good descriptions of what you were seeing, as well as authentic artifacts from the Mozart family. My fave was an original manuscript of "Dies Irae" from the Requiem. I was all- I've done that piece!! And just imagine standing in the room where freaking Mozart was born. Unreal!
Mozart's Birthhouse

We grabbed a quick coffee and then Alex had to leave to catch a train to Munich. I then headed to the Panorama Museum, where they had a special "The Real Von-Trapp" exhibit, as well as one that showed all the different adaptations of the story, in writing, in film, on broadway, and in all different languages. My favourite part was a little audio station where you could listen to "Favourite Things" in 12 different languages. Japanese was the coolest. After visiting the museum, I think I'd like to read the real Maria's autobiography, who was, btw, a second soprano. Holla.

Right next door was the Salzburg Museum, where I learned about the history of the city, looked at some paintings of mountains, and was introduced to Austria's first feminist.

Then I broke up my museum stretch with some shopping. Still no luck on new shoes, and my current ones are quite literally falling apart. My only hope is London, or that they last the next 6 days without crumbling off my feet.

My final destination was Mozart's residence, where along with wandering the rooms, you got an audio guide and listened to Mozart throughout. That was really nice.

I had dinner at the Heart of Joy cafe again. I know the food is good, and the prices are decent, so why not.

Gluwein with my new friend Kate!
At 6:00 I met up with Kate, and a new roomie, Jan, and we hit up the newly opened Christmas markets!!!! First we visited the smaller one at Mirabellplatz, and then made an evening of it at Salzburger Christkindlmarkt- the largest market in Austria. 100 stalls! We enjoyed a cup of gluwein (mine flavoured with apple and cinnamon- yum!) and then wandered through the stalls selling ornaments, spices, food, and enjoying the trees and beautiful sparkling lights. It was the perfect way to wrap up my time in this lovely city!!
Christmas Market!!



Wednesday, November 21, 2012

Sup Salzburg?

So Tuesday morning Beate extended her awesomeness and drove me to the Berlin-Tegel airport for my flight to Salzburg.
Foggy Salzburg


I arrived in Austria at around 2:00pm, and I must say, the surrounding greyness wasn't doing much for my mood. I caught a bus from the airport to the train station and on that ride I told myself, no sense in being gloomy, and was awesome instead. Really though. I just forced myself to smile, and soon I was just smiling! Try it sometime.

I got to my hostel and checked in and settled in. My room is so nice, and has a big ensuite bathroom with a real shower that I'm pretty excited to use. (Simple pleasures, people). I set out right away to it in some exploring before it got dark. I didn't have a purpose other than getting my bearings and killing some time really.

It didn't take long for me to realize that I loved this city. I think it has a whole lot to do with how much they love Christmas. Honestly, there is a wreath above every door, a display in every window. And I don't just mean retail shops. There were Christmas trees with glasses-ornaments at the optometrists. Salzburg goes all out my friends! I also caught an ad with the freaking brilliant news that the Christmas Markets open Thursday, which means I just catch them!

So much Christmas!
I stuck in "New Town" my first evening (the same side of the river as my hostel) since getting lost my first night in a new place wasn't something I wasn't interested in and was something that probably would have happened. I discovered a lovely little shopping street and hit up a few stores. It was my first time hearing Christmas tunes! Joy!

After my mini shop I found a little cafe for dinner called "The Heart of Joy" with, get this, G-Free specials!!!!! Dang! So I had the daily special, which was curried lentils with rice and it was delicious. It was also a huge amount so I was able to take some back to the hostel for lunch the next day. I had a Mozart Café, which was with caramel and organic whipped cream and slivered almonds, and came with one of the "Mozart Balls" that Salzburg is famous for.

Mozart Cafe
I got back to the hostel around 6:30 or so and met two of my roomies, Alex from Sidney, Australia and Gina from Seoul, South Korea (if only I was from Ottawa). We decided to all go downstairs together and watch "The Sound of Music" together in the "Amadeus Room" downstairs. T'was a lovely evening. We were joined by a couple other gals and we all sang along and had a lovely time.

I woke up at 9am this morning and squeezed in a few sites before my organized SoM tour. My first stop was the Salzburg Dom, or cathedral. I must say I was more impressed with the one in Berlin, but it was still opulent and lovely. I walked down the Getreidegasse- Salzburg's main shopping street. I slobbered over many an Xmas ornament, but so far I'm holding out for the "real thing" at the markets tomorrow night.

Back over the bridge, I visited the Mirabell Gardens and was particularly giddy to visit the little dwarves and Pegasus fountain that feature prominently in the "Do-Re-Mi" scene from SoM. At around 12:30 I went back to my hostel for a vote to eat, and met another Aussie named Kate in the lounge. We made plans to meet up in the evening, and then I headed out to meet my tour group.

They race through here during Do-Re-Mi!
Pegasus Fountain
Me in the Mirabell Gardens
In what is explained most accurately as an odd situation, I was put in a mini van with a family of 6, and just me. So Gma, Gpa, mum and dad, 16 yr old sister, 5 year old brother, and me. Haha. Weird. But our guide, Naomi, was cool and fun, and I was sitting up front with her, so it was all good.

Where the kids and Maria fall in the lake!

16 going on 17!

I HAVE CONFIDENCE IN ME!

During the tour we listened to the SoM soundtrack and sang along. We drove past many of the sites the movie was filmed at, and got out at some key ones to take pictures. My fave spots were the lake where Maria and the kids tip over in the boat, the gazebo where Leisel and Rolf sing "16 going on 17", and the lane that Maria runs down while singing "Confidence in Me". After seeing all the central Salzburg sites, we drove out to lake country to see where the picnic scene was filmed. We also visited "Mondsee" to visit the church where Maria and the Captain were married in the movie. I had a "crisp apple strudel" at the cafe across the street. I couldn't resist.

That was our last stop. We sang "So long, Farewell" and then Naomi was kind enough to drive me right to my hostel so I didn't have to walk back by myself in the dark. I met Kate in the lobby and we's meant to go to a museum, but my Frommer's book lied, and the 2 we had to choose from actually closed at 5 and not 8. Lame. So we just went for dinner instead, at a restaurant in Old Town called Zom Morhen that Mozart and Schubert used to eat at. Bam. I had a supremely delicious veal goulash. The meat was so so tender. I stayed away from the spätzle and schnitzel since I'd already cheated today. The goulash was so good though.

Tomorrow I am going to do EVERYTHING else on my list. It's a big one. It's gonna be a big day.


Salzburg by night- walking back into New Town with Kate

Tuesday, November 20, 2012

Ich leibe dich

Me at the Berlin Wall
After our morning nap early Sunday, Pauline and I set out to see the Berlin Wall before her shift started at "O2 World". We saw the part of the wall that has been turned into a gallery of sorts- that is, the remaining part of the wall has been reclaimed by artists and is like a series of murals. It was neat to see how different artists decided to use the space allotted to them. Seeing the wall up close also really cemented in how freaking crazy it was that that thing was running through the city for so many years.

Me and Pauline (repping Canada!)
When Pauline went off to fulfill her duties as an "O2 Angel" I explored the nearby area and eventually found my way to a little bakery/cafe where I enjoyed a mocha while catching up on my last France days in my journal. Pauline was off at 5pm, and we went back to her place for dinner with her parents before she had to head back to Leipzig. We had a yummy vegetable dish with zucchini and squash and stuff, and some seriously amazing lamb. It was really sad saying goodbye to Pauline!! We had picked up right where we left off, really enjoying each other, and it sucked to have to part ways so soon. Summer 2016 may be our next opportunity to hang out. She's a busy girl!!! Maybe I'll have to get back to Germany before then if she can't make it to Canada. ;)

Last night my schedule finally linked up with my bestie's. It was super excellent chatting with Kirst. Also had a good chat with my mummy. I got to bed by midnight, but still wasn't able to wake up at 8:30, like I meant to this morning. Luckily I still found time to do everything on my list even though I didn't leave the apartment til 10am.

My day started off with a wild goose chase in search of a post office. Despite early frustrations I was eventually victorious in shipping my Paris souvenirs off to Lisa in Amsterdam. I'm gonna have so much more room in my bag now!!

Berliner Dom
Next I successfully negotiated the transit system and reached "Museum Island". My original plan had been to go to the Neues Museum, but admission was quite hefty, so I instead hit up the slightly cheaper "Berliner Dom" and I was so glad I did! It was a beautiful cathedral, and I had the opportunity to climb the 267 (whew!) stairs up to the roof for a pretty sweet view of Berlin, fog and all.
Beautiful Dom







After the Dom I walked to Brandenburg Gate and took that in. Right near by is the memorial for the murdered Jews of Europe- grey concrete slabs of differing heights. It's a different memorial from any of the others I've seen so far, and I think the idea behind it is that when you walk through the headstone like rows they just seem to go on forever forever, and they loom above you. Thought-provoking, to be sure.
Brandenburg Gate yo!
Jewish Memorial

I made my way to the "Topography of Terror", a free exhibit in the former SS headquarters detailing Hitler's rise to power, as well as his fall. This exhibit featured not just Jewish, but other ethnic political and otherwise victims of the Holocaust more so than any other exhibit I've seen. I think that's important, and I'm glad they gave that care in creating the exhibit.

Checkpoint Charlie
After walking through there, I made my way to "Checkpoint Charlie"- the most famous checkpoint from the times of divided Berlin. I also visited the Mauermuseum- the wall museum, that intriguingly was inaugurated before the wall even came down, and was a constant source of information for various events conserving the wall, from demonstrations to escape attempts. Probably the most interesting parts of the museum were the ones that detailed how people made it out of the GDR, or campaigns put on to reconnect families split up because of the east/west split. The English translations were kinda shitty, but other than that it was a neat place to visit.

It was dark when I left the museum at 5:30ish. That's definitely the crappiest part about traveling in the fall. I killed some time at Starbucks, and found a place I wanted to eat dinner at right near Pauline's place.

My farewell to Germany dinner at Mecker-Etz
"Mecker-Etz" is one of the oldest establishments in that area, and it's been family owned for 4 generations- which is a pretty big deal when you think about it. I got a harsh stare down from a table of old beer-drinking German men when I walked in. Not the most tourist friendly place, I gathered quickly. The waitresses were fine though. I had a Berliner Pilsner (so authentic) and off their Pauline-approved German food menu I got a meatball with fried potatoes that was to die for. Served with a yummy mustard and little side salad too.

I got back to Pauline's place around 8:30, which is right when Beate and Hagen were leaving to meet a friend for dinner. So I had the place to myself, and spend the evening catching up on journalling ad watching "Inglorious Basterds" for the first time. What a good movie!

When Pauline's parents got home, we had a farewell drink together of "Cuba libre" which is what they call rum and coke. It was so nice to just hang out in a real living room and have some friendly conversation. Before we knew it, it was 1am! So I said goodbye to Hagen, since I wouldn't be seeing him again, and we all went to bed.


Monday, November 19, 2012

Berlin Baby!

I've finally made it to Berlin to see my lovely girl Pauline. We realized it was the summer of 2011 that we first met, so not really that long ago-but with so many failed Europe trips under my belt, it feels like this one was forever in the making.

Sweetheart that she is, Pauline picked me up at the airport and we trained into Berlin together. Apparently people don't live in houses much here, but rather really lovely apartments, and Pauline's place is no exception. So cozy and so cool! It's got all these neat geometric angles in the white walls, built in bookshelves, and clever shoe hideaways. I seriously love it.

I joined Pauline and her parents, Beate and Hagen, for their "Friday Night Dinner" (a la Gilmore Girls) at "SoHo house" a fancyshmance club where Pauline's dad is a member. Pauline's family, with intense generosity, treated me to dinner and to drinks up on the rooftop bar afterwards. It was so nice to hang out in a family-type setting. Pauline and her mom are super tight like me and my mom are, so while it somewhat made me homesick, it also made me happy to see that daughter/mother bond in action. Pauline's parents are freaking cool. And so friendly.

I had a really interesting chat with them at the bar about what it was like to live in Easy Berlin, and how their lives changed when the wall came down. It's pretty crazy that just one generation away from mine and Pauline's experienced all that. They had some very intriguing things to say, some of which I'd never thought about.

After hanging out a bit longer at the bar, Pauline and I trained to another area of town to meet her friend Sophia and Sophia's bf Manni.

It was an adventure finding the place- a couple of the gate entrances were locked, so we had to go around the block to get in. It turned out that we were at a part art exhibition part bar space, and it was quite hipster and cool. The beginning of the exhibition was a projected video of a black guy in a white linen suit rolling around in a room with a floor entirely covered in white cups and saucers. Just rolling around on dishes. Then, eventually, he starts pouring coffee into the cups, across the walls, all over himself...then does some more rolling. Modern art man. Kevin and Walter would have peed their pants.

After checking out the exhibition we went into the bar area, which was kind of a grotto/maze like building, with worn down walls and skinny hallways and staircases leading to little rooms and cubby holes. The whole place was lit with candlelight. We had a drink there and danced a bit, and then trained home together and got to bed at 2:30ish.

The market near Pauline's house
Me and Pauline with our Gluwein
The next morning, Pauline and I joined her dad for breakfast. He'd made me a poached egg (Pauline is vegan right now) and the table was laid with bread, meats and a variety of different spreads and jams and things. When I asked if that was a typical German breakfast, Hagen told me it was "well, a typical Boßdorf breakfast". Pauline and I took our time getting ready, and eventually joined her parents at an adorable farmer's market right near by. Pauline explained that her neighbourhood is really in to organic living, and that showed in all the families it together buying produce for their dinners. Hagen treated the gals to a steaming mug of gluwein (mulled wine) that hit the spot on that crisp autumn day (have I mentioned how cold it is here? Negatives man. It's all about the layering).

Pauline and I continued our afternoon with a stroll through the area, popping in and out of stores and both buying "stirnbands" to protect our poor ears from the cold. They're apparently very trendy in Berlin right now. Check me out.

Love Berlin!
That evening, we met Pauline's friend Sebi for dinner in Kreuzberg, and went to a Mexican place. I had the peanut chicken with rice (more Thai than Mexican, no?) at Sebi's recommendation, and it was delicious.

After dinner, we met Sophia at an "off theater" to see a modern dance performance by a company she had recently joined. Oh Karley, be jealous. The theme of the show was "rebellion", and 3 distinct pieces explored the idea in equally neat ways. We three girls agreed though that the last dance was or favourite- and it also happened to be the one choreographed by Sophia's new teacher. There was a DJ'ed after party following the show, so we grabbed drinks
and got our dance on. People were being pretty modern and crazy in their movements, so that was super fun.

Our next stop (after a quick food stop) was Pauline's friend Anna's place, where a gang of her friends were together "pregaming". They were playing "boxi"- King's Cup. Gotta love the internationality of drinking games. They were all speaking German, but with the exception of Pauline's translating the "never have I ever's" I mostly got on just fine.

Because there were so many people there, there wasn't a lot of English being spoken, but I was totally content to just sip my machi-vodka and soak up the fact that I was hanging out like a real Berliner.

We left Anna's place around maybe 2 or so, at which point the night was still far from over. We made another stop for food, and then headed to "Suicide Circus" to meet Manni. We then made our way to "Watergate"- a club that would make Stefon from Weekend Update proud. Pauline said it was like, one of the coolest club ls in Berlin and definitely not easy to get into.


The view from Watergate
Except when you have mad connections that is!!!!! A friend of Manni's was friends with the DJ- or something- and had a list of fake names that were on the guest list. So amidst a bunch of German that sounded like complete gobbledygook to me, I was told "you're Mykke" and herded past the 2-3 hour lineup of people, exempt from the 15€ cover charge, and into the club with one of the best sound systems in the country (maybe in Europe? I can't recall) and a dynamite floor to ceiling view of the river.

We got in to the club at around 3:30am. Pauline was all "it's early...so the music isn't very good...it'll get better". Excuse me, it's early? Oh yes. So. I thought Amsterdam was crazy what with their bars being open til 4am. Sophia and Pauline couldn't even figure out the German word for "closing hours". They don't exist! The clubs open up on Friday night and JUST STAY OPEN. They just never close!!! Apparently one of Watergate's beat features is its Eastern facing windows, and everyone just dances the night away and then watches the sunrise fill the room with light.

Pauline and I in the wee hours
Well. The sunrise wasn't scheduled until 7:33 for Sunday morning, and Pauline had to work the next day, so we couldn't so that. We did, however stay until 6:30am, which means I went TO BED at 7am. Berlin man! It's frickin' crazy! It's frickin' awesome!


Thursday, November 15, 2012

Mon dernièr jour à Paris

Man. Did two weeks in Paris ever fly by. I can't believe I'll be in Berlin this time tomorrow.

I started the morning off with a stroll through Montmartre while I did laundry. It took a while, given that I'm dead scared of ruining my whites again and refuse to wash them with anything else. I probably spent 20€ on detergent and machine use. When I get home I'm gonna do laundry every day just because I can.

Exhibit at Hotel de Ville
When I finally finished that up, I caught the metro to Hôtel de Ville and went to the free exhibit there on "Paris vu par Hollywood"- Paris as seen through the eyes of America, essentially. Since admission was free, I splurged on the English audio guide, which was a good thing since all the captions were in French only. It was a neat exhibit! Small, but succinct because of that. They made use of lots of video clips (obviously), and also props and sketches and things from different movies set in Paris. I especially enjoyed the Audrey Hepburn section. She is so cool.

After the exhibit I popped over to Angelina, the famous "salon de thé" frequented by Coco and Audrey back in the day. I went all out. Set me back 32€, but last day in Paris, right? I had the "Angelina Omelette" for lunch. Then I went full on classic. Had the "l'Africain" chocolat chaud and the "mont blanc", their signature sweet. Oh. My. God. So decadent. So rich.

Mont Blanc and Chocolat Chaud
The Mont Blanc was a meringue topped with Chantilly whipped cream and a chestnut chocolate icing. Man alive. The hot chocolate was actually hot, melted chocolate- maybe that chile chocolate kind- it had bite. And it was served with a little pot of whipped cream, so you could mix it how you liked it. Just. Ah. So good. I can't even describe it. So good.

It did take me like, 25 minutes to flag down my waiter and get the bill, which meant I was late meeting Kevin and Walter at Champs des Mars. Not to mention I thought we were meeting at the station and they thought we were meeting in the park. It all worked out though, because luckily for us, the park had a "buddy bear" display on. Think spirit bears/orcas in Van. Painted bear statues. There were bears from all the UN nations and the boys figured- correctly- that if they hung out by the Canada bear long enough, I'd roll by. The Canada bear was unexpectedly lacking in red and white, so it actually took a while to find, but we were eventually reunited. We met a few other Canadian travelers by hanging near our bear. Man. I love Canada.

le tour Eiffel
After getting a good sentimental gaze in at the Eiffel Tower we went back to the apartment to regroup before our celebratory last night together. We had some sweet 3 part harmony jams and decided to go for dinner at a pub in Montparnasse that was allegedly holding an open mic night. Turns out that wasn't true, so we by chance tried a restaurant/bar du vin on the opposite street corner. By chance there was live jazz that night. By chance, a table became available right in front of the band.

Choosing that restaurant was the best coincidental decision we could have made. We shared a nice rosé, the boys had some French fare while I munched on a humungo salad. "Les deux Guy's" (both guitarists are named Guy. Its such a clever name in both english and french!) played a few tunes while we ate and then took a break. At that point it was just a trio- two guitarists and a stand up bass player.

During our meal I'd been naming the charts they were playing and saying how much fun it'd be to get up and sing. Purely musing, but the boys leaped on the idea and Walter actually asked one of the guitarists if I could sing with them. He was so nice and open to the idea! Asked me what I wanted to sing, and when I asked if they knew "All of Me" he replied "Bien Sûr!" and started humming it. He walked away, I think to chat with his fellow band members, the came back and said "All of Me, et puis!?" They wanted me to sing more than one! I was flipping out. My cheeks were so red.

Walter suggested "Autumn Leaves" (a favourite among Parisians, I've gathered), and then one of the Guy's suggested Satin Doll. So that was that! For their second set the band was joined by a younger tenor sax player. They did a couple songs and then invited me up. The restaurant patrons were so gracious when I was introduced.

We did "All of Me" first. I sang the head, the sax and guitar took solos, and then I think I may have thrown them a bit when I started scatting. Holy man though, was it ever fun!! The next two charts went fine as well. I love that music is an international language and that we could figure out the setup of the song, the intros and endings, despite the fact that my French and their English were both somewhat limited.

After the third song I sang, the audience was calling for an encore, which made me blush like nobody's business. I really didn't know what else to sing, but the band had a binder of standards to flip through. In the meantime, we were discovering that (again by chance!) the 15 of Novembre is a fête of types in Paris, where they celebrate this certain label of red wine, le Beaujolais. The band had written a cute little song about it to the tube of "just a gigilo" and had the whole restaurant sing along. It was hilarious. By now, the boys and I were getting free wine poured for us by both the band members, and their friends there watching. Pretty epic.



After a couple more tunes I got up and sang "Sunny Side of the Street". The band members were a little tipsy, which made for some fun. On the second head the lead guitarist stood up and kinda sang with me. It was great and really gave me the confidence to just have some fun up there. After that set finished the band came and sat with us and we spent maybe 40 minutes just chatting about nothing in particular and having some real laughs. The bassist is also a cartoonist and drew a caricature of me singing. Gonna treasure that forever. The band did a couple more songs at the end of the night- some really fun Dixieland sounding numbers. You could hear the wine. Haha. So many bottles of that beaujo going around.
Me and my gracious Parisian hosts
At the end of the night we exchanged emails and took photos. When I paid the bill, the waiter gave me a pear liqueur on the house for "my beautiful voice". So nice! And actually the liqueur is supposed to be good for your throat, and it did indeed warm it up quite nicely!!!

We left the restaurant around midnight and made it home half an hour later after some ridiculous antics on the metro. Truly an unforgettable night. I can't think of a better way to have spent my last hours in Paris. I owe Kevin and Walter such enormous thanks for making my time here so wonderful. I don't want to leave! But Berlin beckons. On to the next adventure!!

Paris, Je t'aime

Voyager au South of France!

Tuesday/Wednesday this week Kevin and I embarked on part two of our train journey across France. After ticking the north off our list on the weekend, we embarked Tuesday afternoon for Marseilles, one of the Southern most tips of France.

We caught a train out of Paris at 12:30pm, and arrived in Marseilles at 4pm. Our train for Avignon left at 5:46pm. Blitz adventure time!!!! We took a metro to the "old port" and then walked (quite a ways. The tourism website lied to me. 10 mins. Yeah right) to the "Plage des Catalans". It was quite lovely to see the sea. It was a sandy beach, and the sun was just beginning to set. Kevin, crazy boy that he is, went swimming.

                                   
Me and Kev in Marseilles

We had to rush back to the train station, this time taking a bus and then metro, and only JUST made the train. I was freaking the hell out. It all worked out in the end though.

Our slightly creepy YMCA room
We took a bus to central Avignon and had about 40 mins to kill, so we took a wander and grabbed some street food for dinner. I had a yummy ham and cheese omelette and Kevin had a massive kebab that was just exploding with meat. We made it to YMCA hostel at about 8:30. It was pretty abandoned and creepy!!!! But it had beds, which was really all we needed.

We watched a couple episodes of Fringe (oh man!!!!) and went to bed at midnight.

Palais des Popes
The next morning we checked out at 9:30 and took the bus into the heart of Avignon. We took a wander through the nice old timey streets and made it to the "Palais des Popes". We were there for about an hour. It had a lot of big beautiful rooms, some of which worked for singing- this time Kev and I tried Ave Maris Stella.

After the Pope's place we went to the PONT d'AVIGNON!!! AND DANCED ON IT!!!!!! Seriously. So much fun. It was also quite a pretty view when walking across the bridge.


Sur le Pont d'Avignon!!!
We had crêpes for lunch (I'm dumb), took a nice walk back to our bus stop, and then back to the train station. It took an hour to get from Avignon to Lyon. When we got there, we took a metro to "Vieux Lyon", and then a funicular up the hill to Notre Dame de Funière. It was Kevin's favourite church of his trip so far. It was very Romanesque looking. Not only was there a gorgeous sanctuary on the ground level, there was another one beneath that seemed like it was dedicated to Mary. The staircases down had "Ave Maria" written out in a bunch of different languages on the walls. We also stumbled across a random English church service- at 3pm on a Wednesday in Lyon. Who knew?
Notre Dame de Funiere


Europe's oldest church
After coming back down the funicular we took a wander down Rue St. Jean- such an adorable street. Kevin discovered the joys of "vin chaud" and now has a favourite new drink. Eventually we visited the cathedral St. Jean- so many churches this trip! Behind the building there were ruins of one of the first churches of Christianity, dating back to 700AD or something ridiculous like that.

We had dinner at a cute little French place that had a 30% off deal for early diners (score!). Kevin, always the adventurer, tried the typical Lyonneise dish of tripe, which is understand is some part of some animals gut. Ew. At Kevin's recommendation I tried "blanquette", which is veal and vegetables in a really yummy white sauce. After dinner we popped in to a different café for hot drinks, and then metro'ed to the mall beside the train station. I found a journal I liked and bought it, because I think the one I brought with me is going to fill up before the end of my trip.

We caught the train home to Paris and then metro'ed to St. Michel to meet some of Kevin's friends at a pub called "The Highlander". There was an open mic event, but Kev and I got there too late to sign up. It was cool to hear some local Parisian artists!

Can't believe I only have one day left in France!